June 9th 2014. Backroad cycling north of Montreal.

Day 2: Arrival to Mont Tremblant, Quebec via a beautiful, traffic-free bike path. June 2014

A few weeks ago I explored the Laurentian hills by bike just north west of Montreal. As I've stated before and as the cycling world knows, Quebec is an extraordinary place for bicycle touring (National Geographic magazine rated it best in the world in 2007). Between a bike trip I did last summer and a longer one in 2006 I've covered some 1600km of La Belle Province, by bike, yet still barely scratched its surface.

This trip started as Thais and I caught a train from Montreal to the last stop at Saint Jerome where the tracks end. From there the historic trail bed is now converted to Le Route Verte cycling path. Flat. Well maintained gravel path and its riddled with gorgeous camping spots where few people pass. Its a sort of bike touring heaven if you like camping for free and riding with no traffic.

On day two we pass small towns and wind deeper into forested countryside. A steep canyon gurgles with rapids below and lush forest overhangs the path. Heavy rain had passed earlier in the day and clouds of mist anchor themselves along the hills that grew taller, more lush, secretive and alive as we cycle. The constraints of city life are filtered from memory as we enter deeper into the nature. The first wave of inspiration hits me at the canyon. The second wave at an old white pine. And finally, yes indeed, the landscape view strikes me just right and the beauty of the eastern temperate forests is suddenly felt inside.

The next three days are continuously sublime. We ride into Mont Tremblant, which consists of a town, a village and a resort, which is set at the base of the 968m mountain of the same name. We leave there heading southbound to follow the Riviere Rouge road, which takes us further off the beaten path along a gravel road in a relatively unpopulated area. It winds into a tranquill valley, past a Buddhist Monastery, traverses shambled barns and we roll on. A long tiring day of 135km distance, mostly on gravel, ends at sunset with cold caesars purchased from a dusty deppaneur with nearly empty shelves. This is Thais's first bike touring trip ever and she managed the 135 km well. I love to witness a person's maiden bike touring trip. Every single person I've seen begin bike touring, never stops. They become enlightened; all roads connect - you can go anywhere and its basically free.

Backroad bike touring down the Riviere Rouge, Quebec. June 2014.

Day three is spent white water rafting on the Riviere Rouge. We flip the boat, get sucked under water, spit out and swim to shore. Our last day is a splendid ride, 100km on rolling backroads back to where the train tracks begin and the train is there waiting for us. In a few hours more were home. The trip was a classic three and half day escape from a busy city. The 300km distance we cycled was rich in discovery, very affordable, healthy and basically carbon neutral. The gasoline-free aspect of this form of transportation a major motivation for me to do it, but it also carries additional rewards. The highlight for me on this trip, was to finally see the eastern forest in a way that allowed me to discover its sense. Its spirit. Every forest is unique and it takes some time and lots of interaction to get to know them.

Autumn colours at Lac Poisson Blanc, Quebec. Oct 2013